Combined interlining and bust-form.



M. GOLDSTEN. COMBINED INTERLIING AND BUST FORM.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 16, 1909.

Patented July 5, 1910.

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M. Go-LDsTBN. COMBINED INTBBLINING- AND BUST FORM.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. l6 1009.

Patented July 5, 1910.

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MEYER GOLDSTEIN, 0F RICHMOND, VIRGINIA.

COMBINED INTERLINING- AND BUST-FORM.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 5, 1910.

Application led August 16, 1909. Serial No. 513,082.

To all whom tt may concern:

Be it known that l, MEYER GoLDsTErN, a subject of the Emperor of Russia, who have made application for citizenship of the United States, and reside at Richmond, in the county of Henrico and State of Virginia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Combined Interlinings and Bust-Forms, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to apparel and particularly to an interlining designed for the purpose of giving shape to a garment and which will also act to hold the said garmentin shape.

An object of this invention is to produce what might be termed a combined pattern and bust form to be used in making garments for females, it being the purpose of the inventor particularly to produce as an article of manufacture an intermediate lining or stiffener to the outside of which the fabric of the garment may be applied and to the inside of which the lining of a garment may be applied, after the interlining is properly fitted and shaped.

A further obj ect of this invention is to produce an intermediate lining which might be termed a canvas or body of the garment having a bust. form reinforced transversely and vertically in order that said bust may be retained in shape and it is furthermore the object of the inventor to produce an interlining of the character noted that may be employed by comparatively inexperienced dressmakers, tailors and others having limited knowledge of tailoring to enable them to make coats, jackets and other garments having the proper contour and stability for the purpose hereinbefore stated.f

A still further object of the invention is to produce an article of manufacture of the character noted which will possess advantages in points of simplicity, efficiency and durability, proving at the same time comparatively inexpensive to manufacture.

Formerly, it has been the custom of the operator to cut his cloth first according to his measurements, then it required on an average of three fittings, occupying much time and labor, before completing the coat, during the course of which fittings all changes, adjustments and alterations found necessary were made in the cloth itself, thereby displacing the shape of the coat and disiiguring the cloth where striped or figured material is used.

This invention furnishes a combined shape and bust form which is first applied and fitted to the wearer, and the cloth is then cut accordingly.

It is apparent that in addition to the other uses and benefits derived from my inveni tion, the front seam or dart on the bust form serves as an accurate guide for marking off on the canvas and obtaining the dart or front seam or line for the cloth, a correct and proper lapping of the coat fronts is obtained and marked 0E on the canvas for the cutting of the cloth, thus obviating the necessity of shifting, raising or lowering the shoulder in the cloth itself or trimming it, or resorting to other unsatisfactory expedients that ordinarily result in displacing the shape and t of the coat, or in an interruption of the continuity of the figure, stripes or pattern of figured cloth.

WV ith the foregoing and other objects in View, the invention consists in the details of construction and the arrangement and combination of parts to be hereinafter more fully set forth and claimed.

AIn describing the invention in detail, reference will be had to the accompanying drawings forming part of this specification wherein like characters denote corresponding parts in the several views, in which` Figure l illustrates, by a view in perspective an interlining embodying the invention; Fig. 2, illustrates an enlarged detail View of a fragment of the same; Fig. 3, illustrates a sectional View on the line 3 3 of Fig. 2; and Fig. 4, illustrates a sectional View on the line 4r-4 of Fig. 2.

In these drawings A, denotes the interlining comprising French canvas or other suitable material that may be found useful cut to the size and shape desired, which size and shape will depend upon the style in vogue and I do not, therefore, wish to be limited with respect to this feature. In producing this article of manufacture, a dart a, extends from the edge of the interlining at the rear edge thereof and said dart extends longitudinally of the intel-lining practically in line with the front edge of the said interlining, and at a point centrally of the bust. The said dart may diverge and the direction 0f divergence will depend upon the style of the garment to be made. The angle or apex a of the dart is perferably centrally ofv therbust. It has been found:

that the diverging portion of the dartmay extend over` thefshoulder or it may extend vogue and Iado not-wish-to be limitedwth A respect to the angle of the dart with relation to the bust. v f

Y In forming the dart, a width ofthe mate: rial-x isremovedi dependingv upon the convexity that is'A to-be'accorded'? the bust, it beingfoundithat the convex-ity of :thebust will be increased as the width vof thegdart is increased. 'When' the;v proper amount of material-is remo-ved, vthe edges of'fthe interlin-ingwhich lia-ve been cutv to form the dartl are brought-together and are secured in their unitedrelationI inany appropriate manner. After theinterlining'hasbeen givenv the proper' configuration at the'bust, the4 inner surface of theliningfis supplied with astiff ening-B, Apreferably ofr hair cloth, proportionedi-n size and ,shape to the canvas yand'y preferably. extendinggfrom theA shoulder l to point; below.y thebustv to which the hair cloth is extended may be varied to suit particular requirements; InY applying the hair cloth, I preferably :place thel weftV or hair proper thereoftransversely of the garment; i

:.The reinforcingjma-terial B, is-provided with a dart b" ofzsimilar proportion and corresponding in location and position tothe dart a, in the Vinterlir'iing, theedges `ofthe dart in the hair cloth 4being sewed together or--united in orderzthat the seamV in the hair clothY will Icoi-ncidexwith the' seam of the dart in the'interlining: The-'hair' cloth andthe interlin-ing are sewed kor paddedA preferably by hand-to prevent breakingoffthe hairin ther hair. cloth; As a measureof protection, the; edge ofthe hairr cloth is coveredY bya narrowrstrip of-material G, such aslpercaline, the said stripvb'eing sewed inplace by machine preferablyV to'prevent the fibers of therhair cloth from protruding between the stitches or from piercing the cloth or lining of'fthe garment.l 4The strip, C also'prevents stretching y'and aids in holding'the garment inplacepand-shape; Y Y

A; second einforcing or stiffening layer of materialD, preferablyofhairl cloth, is appliedv` to the. inner lsurface of `the' fabric B, and-the layer D, corresponds'insizepractica-lly to the Yarea ofthe bust and? has an *extension ytoward-the'lower-rendtof'the seam lformed by a dart a; The hairor -weft ofy the fmaterial forming: the reinforce-D, eX- tends preferably at right angles Vto the` weft of tliereinforce B, so that when the'two re inforcinglayersHD and' B; arev applied, the

.Y interliningwill "beprevented from" creasing in either direction by thehair in the reinforcing strips. The reinforcing materiaLD first menti-onedlafyer of-'hair cloth below: tli'e busti .and the distance l centrally of the said bust forms,

is,,protectedgbyalayer; of@ fabric .Elsuch as .percaline which corresponds in position,

shape and dimensions to the reinforcing material D, and both the materials E and D t aresewedor padded-.to the foundation body by very close stitching d.

Thedarts in the interlining and reinforcing material as described produce the bulge Ior conveXityofthe bust and the general conformation of the body; the contour or conveXity and resiliency ofthe' bust being permanentlyfmaintained by the extralayer of hair cloth, and* theexteriorcover-vof percaline circumscribing the bust; andthe gen-y eral l conformation of`r the body is` permanentlyy supported and maintainedl by the Y and the narrowA stripoff protecting-` fabric such as percaline protects-its edges and secures'it to the canvas as hereinbefore describedand as illustrated.' A r It isi to be understood that both sides of the garmentconforxngin construction to that heretofore describedr andA a description of the manner of forming and reinforcing oneside of? the garment Willbe understood as applied Vto the other side.

The front of theinterliningon each side is provided witha lapelvF, of any' appro- 'fpriate style andthetwo--lapelslare umted by a col-lar G, fully shown in Figs. 1 ande. The interlinin thus formed is appropriatel-y pressed t "atthe plroper strengthand rigidity maybe given e interl-imngl and I have found hat by the use ofan interlining of this character, I may dispensewith tlie use of' adding-ginl obtainingandlmaintainingl the contour' and convexity of the bust, thereby reducing the weight of the garment; Y

Aneinterlining made in accordanceI with the foregoingafter it hasbeen fitted may be utilized as: an accurate guide for marking the cloth and theliningfor the garment whereby the correctand lproperf location and dimensionsofthe arm-hole, and arm-pit are obtained and whereby the correcti and accurate location-of the collar, lapels, pockets, buttons, button-holes .and yother parts of the l garment may bevobtained;

I claim-fm A 1-. Asanew. article of manufacturean 1n- Vterliningcomprising two sides, acollar connecting said sides, 'said1 sides` having bust forms produced thereon, reinforcing and stifening material attached to the back of the two-sides to hold the shape ofthe/bust forms, and means for-securing the several partstogether. Y

Asanew article ofmanufacture, an interlining comprisingtwo sides, a collar connecting-said sides,l said sides having angular darts therein producing bust' forms,I the apicesv off said' darts being approximately reinforcing ist inforoing and stifening fabric for each bust form at the rear of the irst mentioned stiffening material, the said stifening mate rials and interlining being suitably united, protecting strips applied to the edges of the irst mentioned reinforcing material, a cover for each of the second mentioned reinforcing materials, and means for contiguous layers together.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto aiXed my signature in the presence of two Witnesses.

MEYER GOLDSTEIN.

securing the 10 Witnesses:

IsADoR SHAPIRO, LILLIAN G. EIKER. 

